Monday 20 July 2009

Pop Culture Thumbs-Down 20/07/09


   It's heavily dismaying to learn that Adam 'MCA' Yauch, Beastie Boy founder, campaigner for a free Tibet, and America's premier Buddhist Rhyme King, has been diagnosed with cancer. The band has been one of my largest musical pleasures and inspirations, particularly when I was learning music programming way back when - indeed, I'd say that they "saved" this angst-ridden teenager once upon a time, and my thoughts are with him, his family and his fellow Beasties. I hope he'll beat this



   This is only a Thumbs-Down because I'm tainting this post with a link to The Sun, but photos of Matt Smith and Karen Gillan as the Eleventh Doctor and Amy Pond have emerged as they film episodes of next year's Doctor Who. I'm particularly interested to learn what the sartorialists among us consider as to the new Doctor's outfit, which appears to be a compromise between the outfits of the previous two lead actors but, it must be said, rather lacks the personalisations of his previous selves, rolled hems and boots aside (yes, it does remind me of a certain designer I mention too often, but done on the cheap. And yes, it's more than a little bit 70s). I presume that the academic look, Harris Tweed included, is meant to counter the Time Lord's most youthful physiognomy yet, but they should have just run with it as was done for Doctors Five and Ten (points for the (clip-on, unfortunately) bow tie - it was about time the character started wearing them again). And as far as a professorial, 30s-inspired Doctor goes, it's truly hard to beat the creative whimsicality of Seventh Doctor Sylvester McCoy's ensemble; an imaginative mix-and-match combination that continues to influence me to this day. Still, a couple of tweaks here and there would make the new outfit rather memorable

   Meanwhile, JLS is currently at no.1 in the UK's pop singles chart. It doesn't even merit a link, but it's the UK lionising yet another bland boyband, so there you have it

On the Other Side of the Mirror, I See Lukas Renlund


   Lukas Renlund is one of the most interesting, and surprising, photographic talents that I've come across in some time. With his instinct for settings, layouts and posture, that isn't revelatory - it's the work that needs to be experienced to be believed, and there's a good deal of it available on his website

   Lukas is a 2008 graduate of the London College of Fashion and is currently based in Copenhagen, Denmark, creating his stylish, and somewhat abstract, images for a variety of clients and competitions. But I wouldn't wish to simply regurgitate his website



   In the manner of early Cecil Beaton and Horst P Horst, Lukas' work shows a particular affinity for surrealism, altered perspectives, trompe l'oeil and dream landscapes made bright, crystal clear reality. The imagery has a certain maximal quality due to the amount of detail contained therein despite appearing deceptively stark and minimal on first viewing, whether these be elements of the cloths, backgrounds, models or a combination thereof. As a fashion photographer, his work serves the dual purpose of soliciting a fantasy element to dressing that can often be overlooked, and bringing his craft one step closer to art by absorbing and rechanneling the creative teachings of the latter

   Lukas was on show last week at The Crate in Notting Hill as he wound up his Mirror Universe exhibition before departing for projects anew. The year may be well into its second half now, but he's still one to watch for 2009, and beyond


   And as a bonus; a full-body shot of my Apparel Arts/Junya S/S10-inspired outfit that was not taken by Lukas:

Monday 13 July 2009

Summer Blues Two



   Another opportunity to pull together some summer sale ensembles, this time to stomp some divots at the polo in Richmond with the aid of my heavy soled derbies

   The Junya x Lacoste jacket is familiar to some, so the centrepiece this time is the new pair of linen-cotton Aquascutum trousers that are weighty enough to see me into the chillier hours of the days. And it was past time that I returned to white trousers, a step that honours my efforts to master summer outfits in a satisfactory manner

   Were I more detail minded, I'd share shots of the belt loop-free waist and side adjusters, but I'm not yet au fait with the ways of OCD. The detail I am happy to share is below; evidence that I am not-so-secretly a cravat man after all:

Thursday 9 July 2009

The eBay Post

   Well, I guess it needed doing



   This post is not meant to discuss the state of the nation at eBay, for indeed, I think it's in excellent health at the minute. Despite judicious editing and dwindling funds, I've actually swooped in on more auctions this year than last and the one before. Or at least I think I have

   What I am appreciating is that the offerings over the past 6 months have been better than they've been for some time, starting from the extremely cheap second hand Edward Green loafers that I missed out on due to an unlucky event befalling my proxy, to the Dries Van Noten jacket posted below. For the pursuit of elegance, eBay is an effective and bounteous treasure trove, and on assessment, I'd gamble that a fifth to a quarter of my most favoured pieces have been acquired through such an opportune channel

   Which brings me to my point: a lot of people of my acquaintance do not know what they're missing, due mostly to unknowingness and fear. For them, and for any passers-by who've wondered, here's a quick "How to eBay For Clothes Safely" guide:

  1. Know your style. Like Armani trousers? Great. Know your size, know which colours you like and make sure you narrow down the options so you can navigate through a lot less womenswear while you're at it
  2. Know your size. Worried that it won't fit? eBay a tape measure and find out exactly what you're working with where your figure is concerned. If you want added entertainment, do it in a mirror. Either way, know exactly what this year's chest, shoulders, waistline and inseam are, so you know whether to drop that otherwise impeccable Mackintosh from your watchlist. If the seller isn't providing enough information, send over a list of pointed questions about the garment post haste
  3. Assess the seller's feedback. This is vastly self-evident. You are casting your money into the unknown should you choose to, and nothing helps the choice like getting an idea of a vendor's history, as well as those of his satisfied customers, just to make even more certain
  4. Don't be afraid to cast the net wider. I've had next to no problems with American sellers, who I feel have the best to offer overall where my aesthetic is concerned, not to mention in terms of rarity and uniqueness in their wares. And they're nicer communicators. I just wish that shipping could be faster overall. A recent proxy purchase I undertook for a fellow StyleForum member in New York City arrived within 5 days of my posting it, which, to be honest, is roughly the same for an eBay purchase in a different part of the UK anyway. UK-to-US airmail is ostensibly rather swift, but I think the Son of God will return to the Earth before the reverse becomes reality
  5. Fakes can be avoided. Ask pointed questions about style, material, close-up photographs, laundry tags even. If you've a collection of, or history with, particularly imitated items such as Ferragamo ties, for example, you should be familiar and astute enough to discern tell-tale signs of forgery. And if they dodge the issues, you'll definitely have your answer
  6. Be critical of second hand goods. Yes, I am a booster for them and yes, it's riskier assessing them via computer than from the luxury of actual handling in a charity shop. But that doesn't mean you can't assess them via a computer, nor should you expect the worst just because they're not in a brand or as-new condition. I do wish more sellers would accept the dry cleaning costs themselves, but generally, the quality of the product is not greatly diminished, as long as it's a good product to start with
  7. Finally, treat eBay as what it is - a tool with a wide variety of uses. You will find a lot of interesting, cool and useful things for your wardrobe, as long as you know what you're doing. And if you do, you'll also save a heck of a lot of money. And that's a thought that keeps me vaguely assured at night after indulging this addiction "just one last time"
   Happy eBaying

Wednesday 8 July 2009

Summer Blues One


   A new Dries Van Noten second hand number, season unknown. It's such a rare colour for a DB, and between the price, the cut, the versatility, the weight, and the fact that it will need relatively minor alterations, I knew that I had to go for it. I've been quite fortunate in the sales, the thrift shops and on eBay, and will post new pieces as and when a decent enough ensemble has been crafted

All together now:

And I can tell you my love for you will still be strong/After the Blues of Summer are gone

Wednesday 1 July 2009

Outfit - Persistence Will Murder Your Wallet


   I am giddily pleased to report that after a year and a half of eating correctly, brushing my teeth twice daily, thinking positive thoughts at least once an hour and becoming a monk, I now possess the Junya Watanabe x Lacoste jacket I mentioned coveting not so long ago. I'd spin its arrival as an excuse to the lack of updates last month, but truthfully, I only got it last week, and I hadn't all that much to say due to the English heatwave affecting what pass for my mental faculties

   The photographs of its debut outing were kindly taken by Winston, and subsequently, I've managed to repair my own camera, allowing me to take my own picture when I next wear or see something remotely interesting. The pushed-up sleeves, hat, "pyjama trousers" and scarf-belt are partly a tribute to the late King of Pop. Unlike its counterpart, I see no reason to dye or customise it in any way - it will prove as versatile as I wish. Like its counterpart, the jacket is an amazing piece of construction and design that's perfectly calibrated to the weather as it's as light as the polo shirts it was reconstructed from. Though I wish it was designed to better hold a puffed pocket square

Friday 26 June 2009

Pop Culture All-Time Tick Off 25/06/09

   What a day: Farrah and Michael. Especially Michael. As soon as I can put my feelings aside, I am definitely going to articulate what it feels like when an icon passes on, particularly one who had more of an effect on my life beyond that of the average fan

   Two of the planet's most world-changing pop cultural figureheads. Just like that

Friday 12 June 2009

Junya Watanabe's Year of the Gentleman, Part Two


   I'd never known a fashion collection speak so directly to what I feel could be my idealised aesthetic, particularly in the summertime. After all, for this moment, I've almost achieved it. I'm happy to thrift, to inherit, to use eBay, to go High Street and discerningly acquire at deep discounts, but the JW CdG Man S/S08 show had me considering its extraordinarily high retail prices with genuine intent

   And that almost never happens


   It was the show that sealed my fate. The average runway presentation puts my mind in one of about 3 places: "must have the entire outfit" "would wear that jacket, nix the trousers," "what the hell is that meant to be?" While the latter two speak for themselves, I've never actually purchased and worn an entire runway outfit - this isn't "Monkey See Monkey Do" - nor have I worn an outfit entirely inspired by one. But I've come so very close to this and the current summer collection, and it isn't hard to appreciate why

   With the exception of the more outré ensembles featuring effervescent paisley shorts, sportcoats or trilbies - perhaps de rigueur for the likes of Patrick McDonald on a resort vacation - the show presented an improbably sustainable run of desirable appearances that flirted with practically every trend that has seen men's fashion through the last few years, pushed the bounds of Watanabe's self-imposed traditionalism for all it was worth and somehow ended up as the last word in contemporary dandy gear

It's particularly notable, and impressive, just how much different a lanky man looks in the Lacoste safari jacket compared to myself


   Certainly, something of a mannered, elusive, better-dressed-than-all spirit pervaded matters. The models's walks intermingled with the stationary gathering of the guests, who stood and assessed the viewing in an austere, brightly lit space, waited on by an impeccable man in a double breasted white jacket and a black silk necktie. One of the models was snapped whistling through a turn and doffed his dark Panama hat to the waiting photographers, while another strode with nonchalant ease, a hand in his pocket and confidence and haughtiness hinted across his face. Yet such mannerisms seemed rather unplanned and in full accord with the theme that Watanabe aimed for, terming his creations "Relaxed Suiting"

   This was very much a presentation for the smart dresser who wore his clothes to live, much in the manner that dear old Fred Astaire would roll up and throw his freshly bespoke suits against the wall to rid them of their "newness." And roll ups were certainly driving many of the ideas. The wrinkles evident in so many of the garments were created by tightly tying them into a ball and leaving them overnight. Meanwhile, every single trouser on show was roll cuffed for maximum offbeat elegance (and some jacket sleeves too)


   Having seen and purchased some of the clothes, I can confirm that they're a genuine delight, but the true value certainly lies in its tailoring. A Lacoste safari jacket made out of recut, overdyed polo shirts and utilising features such as armpit guards could quite possibly be the apex of lightweight outerwear, but the other collaborations were just as thrilling. A short safari suit made out of Brooks Brothers Oxford cloth was similarly inventive, while the ante was upped on the longterm Levi's collaboration when Watanabe actually recut the jeans jackets into sportcoats and safari jackets rather than simply cutting them in different fabrics as before, though the gingham cloth certainly helped in that regard

   The own label jackets were just as charming - aside from the wrinkles, there was variety to be had in four front patch pockets; foulard or floral print half lining; leather and elbow patchwork; the memorable coffee bag redesigns; madras blazers; cotton, linen, ramie; and a variety of warm weather weights. Some were so thin a camera flash could expose the lining for a single instant and if that wasn't enough display, some of the jackets inventively featured their lining above the second button on a 3-button configuration, displayed by rolling the first button point into the lapels (3 roll 2, so goes the parlance)

   And the JW shorts suit, 2 years on, is still about the only take that doesn't seem wholly silly. The proportional balance of matching a shorter jacket to knee length shorts and opting for a cut with a slimmer, rather than skintight, waist and natural shoulders made them an enticing proposition

   Other strong showings came from the knitwear designs, which were heavy on classic argyle and cricket stripes arranged in a less conventional manner and rendered in bolder, yet considered, colours than by, say, Gucci. The shirts were also delightful and progressed from plain pastels to the currently-ubiquitous gingham to wrinkled foulard-printed shirts. My inner Jermyn Street fanatic was immediately sold by the emphasis placed on French collars, and only a little disappointed that the matching white cuffs were not designed for links. The appearances of the latter shirts were matched to colourful, candy striped loose-fit trousers that appeared initially uneasy, but ultimately seemed to cohere into a witty take on current pyjama-derived dressing

   The preference for smart, sturdy shoes also worked to keep the collection grounded (per se), and were accurately matched to the shorts, chinos and jeans. And the hats were simply fantastic; varied in colour, style and hue, the hatbands composed of the same print cottons as the linings, shirts and jackets. Watanabe was so enamoured of them that he used both the men's and women's hats in each show.

   As he is wont to do, the later women's collection was a fantastical version of this one, utilising the cricket jumper, reworking the shirts into floaty, voluminous wrap dresses or short jumpsuits and even creating a women's version of the panelled, stitched charcoal suit that could be bought with either matching trousers or a shirt. No one riffs on a theme the same way Watanabe can


   And what of the themes? One of the similarities I neglected to include in the previous dissection was a resemblance to Paul Smith’s A/W 03 collection; all sturdy shoes, country checks and somewhat boxy, slim-and-short-cut suiting. This had a beguilingly subdued mix of youthful Paul Smith-esque colours with Etro-like patterns and emphasised a much more European outlook to Junya's work this time. Although his traditional manifesto always holds true, Watanabe is often considered to be an American nostalgist and the instinct was strong amongst some to connect the pastel pieces, cricket v-necks and short suits to Thom Browne and preppydom. And this would be selling the wide-ranging styles of the pieces rather short

   Indeed, a variety of influences can be gleaned if one looks closely. Naval stripes and the prints suggested early 20th century seafaring and resort holidays. The coffee bag theme and the messy formality put one in mind of Deep South river workers, just the types to roll up their cuffs and get soaked, emerging with clothes shrunken and clinging to their frames. And Frillr.com, recognising that there is no single overriding influence, memorably described the aesthetic as "a Coffee worker born in Italy, raised in New York around the 50s, who then went west and worked at some farm with Thom Browne"

   But I think my fellow StyleForvm member, Fuuma, was particularly accurate in citing Lanvin as an influence, pointing out that the European dandyism, "manchild mash-ups" (an all-ages appeal exemplified by the varying ages amongst the models), nontraditionally cut suiting and washed, wrinkled smart fabric was straight out of the Elbaz & Ossendrijver playbook, albeit filtered through Watanabe's own wilder and personalised insights. And such a recombinant form of dress speaks highly of his unerring eye for hybridisation


   I'm still in love with much of this, two years after I first saw the photos. A different way of looking at tailoring but without sacrificing good taste and a gentleman's attention to detail. Wonderful colours and a laid back presentation. Smart shoes, smart socks, smart hats

   Glib as this may be, who says tradition is boring? Or that it should not co-exist with high fashion? Not Junya Watanabe - and clothing is all the better for him

Your author trying on his JW wrinkled sportcoat with floral lining. It will see many more outings in better weather, though I think the buttons may have to be changed

It's been over a year and I still need this jacket in my life. My time will come

Tuesday 9 June 2009

Weekend's Worth of Troublemaking


   I will endeavour to come up with some more substantial (ha!) posts presently. To take up some room, I enclose a party photo from over the weekend at an event hosted by my friend at Tekkstyle. Themed "Le Freak, C'est Chic," it was generally agreed that I erred more on the side of chic compared to most - I simply aimed for a slightly exaggerated version of myself by maxing out on the old accessories, though it doesn't entirely compare to the shock factor of simply wearing either of my Junya jackets. I'd have shot a full-length and taken my own photos, but... something has happened to my camera that may not be rectified for some time. That's life

ShareThis