Junya Watanabe's Year of the Gentleman, Part Two

   I'd never known a fashion collection speak so directly to what I feel could be my idealised aesthetic, particularly in the summertime. After all, for this moment, I've almost achieved it. I'm happy to thrift, to inherit, to use eBay, to go High Street and discerningly acquire at deep discounts, but the JW CdG Man S/S08 show had me considering its extraordinarily high retail prices with genuine intent

   And that almost never happens

   It was the show that sealed my fate. The average runway presentation puts my mind in one of about 3 places: "must have the entire outfit" "would wear that jacket, nix the trousers," "what the hell is that meant to be?" While the latter two speak for themselves, I've never actually purchased and worn an entire runway outfit - this isn't "Monkey See Monkey Do" - nor have I worn an outfit entirely inspired by one. But I've come so very close to this and the current summer collection, and it isn't hard to appreciate why

   With the exception of the more outré ensembles featuring effervescent paisley shorts, sportcoats or trilbies - perhaps de rigueur for the likes of Patrick McDonald on a resort vacation - the show presented an improbably sustainable run of desirable appearances that flirted with practically every trend that has seen men's fashion through the last few years, pushed the bounds of Watanabe's self-imposed traditionalism for all it was worth and somehow ended up as the last word in contemporary dandy gear

It's particularly notable, and impressive, just how much different a lanky man looks in the Lacoste safari jacket compared to myself

   Certainly, something of a mannered, elusive, better-dressed-than-all spirit pervaded matters. The models's walks intermingled with the stationary gathering of the guests, who stood and assessed the viewing in an austere, brightly lit space, waited on by an impeccable man in a double breasted white jacket and a black silk necktie. One of the models was snapped whistling through a turn and doffed his dark Panama hat to the waiting photographers, while another strode with nonchalant ease, a hand in his pocket and confidence and haughtiness hinted across his face. Yet such mannerisms seemed rather unplanned and in full accord with the theme that Watanabe aimed for, terming his creations "Relaxed Suiting"

   This was very much a presentation for the smart dresser who wore his clothes to live, much in the manner that dear old Fred Astaire would roll up and throw his freshly bespoke suits against the wall to rid them of their "newness." And roll ups were certainly driving many of the ideas. The wrinkles evident in so many of the garments were created by tightly tying them into a ball and leaving them overnight. Meanwhile, every single trouser on show was roll cuffed for maximum offbeat elegance (and some jacket sleeves too)


   Having seen and purchased some of the clothes, I can confirm that they're a genuine delight, but the true value certainly lies in its tailoring. A Lacoste safari jacket made out of recut, overdyed polo shirts and utilising features such as armpit guards could quite possibly be the apex of lightweight outerwear, but the other collaborations were just as thrilling. A short safari suit made out of Brooks Brothers Oxford cloth was similarly inventive, while the ante was upped on the longterm Levi's collaboration when Watanabe actually recut the jeans jackets into sportcoats and safari jackets rather than simply cutting them in different fabrics as before, though the gingham cloth certainly helped in that regard

   The own label jackets were just as charming - aside from the wrinkles, there was variety to be had in four front patch pockets; foulard or floral print half lining; leather and elbow patchwork; the memorable coffee bag redesigns; madras blazers; cotton, linen, ramie; and a variety of warm weather weights. Some were so thin a camera flash could expose the lining for a single instant and if that wasn't enough display, some of the jackets inventively featured their lining above the second button on a 3-button configuration, displayed by rolling the first button point into the lapels (3 roll 2, so goes the parlance)

   And the JW shorts suit, 2 years on, is still about the only take that doesn't seem wholly silly. The proportional balance of matching a shorter jacket to knee length shorts and opting for a cut with a slimmer, rather than skintight, waist and natural shoulders made them an enticing proposition

   Other strong showings came from the knitwear designs, which were heavy on classic argyle and cricket stripes arranged in a less conventional manner and rendered in bolder, yet considered, colours than by, say, Gucci. The shirts were also delightful and progressed from plain pastels to the currently-ubiquitous gingham to wrinkled foulard-printed shirts. My inner Jermyn Street fanatic was immediately sold by the emphasis placed on French collars, and only a little disappointed that the matching white cuffs were not designed for links. The appearances of the latter shirts were matched to colourful, candy striped loose-fit trousers that appeared initially uneasy, but ultimately seemed to cohere into a witty take on current pyjama-derived dressing

   The preference for smart, sturdy shoes also worked to keep the collection grounded (per se), and were accurately matched to the shorts, chinos and jeans. And the hats were simply fantastic; varied in colour, style and hue, the hatbands composed of the same print cottons as the linings, shirts and jackets. Watanabe was so enamoured of them that he used both the men's and women's hats in each show.

   As he is wont to do, the later women's collection was a fantastical version of this one, utilising the cricket jumper, reworking the shirts into floaty, voluminous wrap dresses or short jumpsuits and even creating a women's version of the panelled, stitched charcoal suit that could be bought with either matching trousers or a shirt. No one riffs on a theme the same way Watanabe can


   And what of the themes? One of the similarities I neglected to include in the previous dissection was a resemblance to Paul Smith’s A/W 03 collection; all sturdy shoes, country checks and somewhat boxy, slim-and-short-cut suiting. This had a beguilingly subdued mix of youthful Paul Smith-esque colours with Etro-like patterns and emphasised a much more European outlook to Junya's work this time. Although his traditional manifesto always holds true, Watanabe is often considered to be an American nostalgist and the instinct was strong amongst some to connect the pastel pieces, cricket v-necks and short suits to Thom Browne and preppydom. And this would be selling the wide-ranging styles of the pieces rather short

   Indeed, a variety of influences can be gleaned if one looks closely. Naval stripes and the prints suggested early 20th century seafaring and resort holidays. The coffee bag theme and the messy formality put one in mind of Deep South river workers, just the types to roll up their cuffs and get soaked, emerging with clothes shrunken and clinging to their frames. And Frillr.com, recognising that there is no single overriding influence, memorably described the aesthetic as "a Coffee worker born in Italy, raised in New York around the 50s, who then went west and worked at some farm with Thom Browne"

   But I think my fellow StyleForvm member, Fuuma, was particularly accurate in citing Lanvin as an influence, pointing out that the European dandyism, "manchild mash-ups" (an all-ages appeal exemplified by the varying ages amongst the models), nontraditionally cut suiting and washed, wrinkled smart fabric was straight out of the Elbaz & Ossendrijver playbook, albeit filtered through Watanabe's own wilder and personalised insights. And such a recombinant form of dress speaks highly of his unerring eye for hybridisation


   I'm still in love with much of this, two years after I first saw the photos. A different way of looking at tailoring but without sacrificing good taste and a gentleman's attention to detail. Wonderful colours and a laid back presentation. Smart shoes, smart socks, smart hats

   Glib as this may be, who says tradition is boring? Or that it should not co-exist with high fashion? Not Junya Watanabe - and clothing is all the better for him

Your author trying on his JW wrinkled sportcoat with floral lining. It will see many more outings in better weather, though I think the buttons may have to be changed

It's been over a year and I still need this jacket in my life. My time will come

Images from Men's Style and Imaxtree.com via NY Mag

Weekend's Worth of Troublemaking

   I will endeavour to come up with some more substantial (ha!) posts presently. To take up some room, I enclose a party photo from over the weekend at an event hosted by my friend at Tekkstyle. Themed "Le Freak, C'est Chic," it was generally agreed that I erred more on the side of chic compared to most - I simply aimed for a slightly exaggerated version of myself by maxing out on the old accessories, though it doesn't entirely compare to the shock factor of simply wearing either of my Junya jackets. I'd have shot a full-length and taken my own photos, but... something has happened to my camera that may not be rectified for some time. That's life

The In-Between Season

   Sometimes, seasonal dressing gets its wires crossed. It may become bright, but inexplicably cool, or humid, but overcast. And despite the unswerving heat of late, Monday still found time to have its cake and eat it by serving up some unexpected rain. Today's temperature is similarly unwieldy, but hardly a return to wintry days, nonetheless

   Still, it never ceases to amaze me how few actually check a forecast before departing their abodes for the day, which puts me in mind of a certain Forrest Gump quote, but I like to be prepared for change from above if I can help it. And one thing I am definitely a fan of is the year-round suit

One of my all-seasons suits in January 2009. The double breasted design helps to keep the heat in and the breathable, lighter worsted material helps to regulate my temperature

   Whilst on my recent sojourn in Edinburgh, an incoming graduate, about to be released into the arid desert of the current job market, made a few enquiries of me as to what kinds of suits he needed for upcoming work and where to find them. After making the usual suggestions - Reiss, Austin Reed, Suit Supply, H&M - I cautioned him: "If you can, get three. One should definitely be a reasonably warm wool, and you'll be well-timed to pick one up in August or September. But definitely buy one in the summer sales - it'll be of a lighter weight, but will keep you temperate enough well into October, at least. You need that one suit that deals well with most temperatures and can be supported with a coat, Barbour or v-neck when necessary"

   As for off-duty times, if the weather is wonky enough, as it is today, I like to throw on a wool sportcoat, slightly lighter trousers (my upper half deals with the confusion a little better) and skip the ties for a neckscarf. Because I am that sort of a man. It's much like having the best of both worlds

If I May Be Political For a Moment

   Having had a BNP leaflet pushed through my letterbox last week and then viewed this incriminating video created by the canny crusaders at Don't Panic, I'd like to remind any UK folk who don't agree with the views and behaviour of the party to vote for someone else come Thursday. Like I will

   There are just some things you shouldn't be allowed to get away with

   B

Pop Culture Thumbs-Up - 31/05/09

   This is Karen Gillan, the first companion for the Eleventh Doctor in next year's all-new Doctor Who series. I approve. I can imagine the trickle of information increasing over the summer to maintain interest in the remaining specials and beyond

   Hickey A/W09, via A Continuous Lean - worth a glance to see one of the most striking Sartorialist subjects take the stage as Hickey's mannequin

   Much as I maintain a healthy disinterest in Britain's Got Talent, I must approve of the winners - who doesn't love a dance crew?

   Observant as ever, Bill Cunningham does one of his sporadic weigh-ins on NYC men's outfits in a slideshow entitled 'Boundless.' In the microcosm of the world's cultural capital, dressing up is king

   "I'm extravagant in ways that relate to my heritage" - celebrated man of letters Gay Talese on his love affair with suiting. It truly is all in the details. If that quote does not become his epitaph - I'm sure he's said better - then I'd like it to be mine

   UK-specific - Sky1 stealthily nabbed House season 5 whilst Channel 5 was procrastinating and episode one went out earlier tonight. It's an uneven season, but stick with it - the highs are as emotive and hilarious and thought-provoking as ever, and if you're at all emotionally invested in the Damaged Doctor, the finale just might crack your heart

   Late addendum: Eminem vs. Bruno. Nothing distracts from the ills of the world like a gross-out moment on national TV that will probably lead to a major vendetta (as long as it really was unscripted, of course. Which it wasn't)

    Pointless note: the last entry in this column was on the 13th. How palindromic

The Sun is My Enemy

   I like the brightness and the length of the days. I just don't deal as well with the heat (more or less what I expressed the last time the weather improved). "Elegance is harder to maintain in the summer" is a truism that someone needs to print onto a t-shirt. Speaking of upper halfwear, I'm wearing the H&M TREND(Y) shirt I wrote of some time ago. It may inspire the shortest 'Customise Me' post ever once I've changed the position of the collar's buttons

   The title of the post was borrowed from a song by my musical idol, Cornelius, who more than likely borrowed it from the book by Henrietta Aladjem. Because of familiarity I can recommend the one, and because it seems fitting somehow, I may as well recommend the other. I hope that whoever's reading enjoyed their weekend

In fairness, the evenings are still cool enough for a little layering. Everyone's a winner, baby

The Bow Tie Post (A Primer)

It's time

  Truth is, the bow tie just seems incapable of dying, no matter how far out of favour it's fallen as daywear. Even if half the attendees at a black or white tie event can only put together a clip-on-centric ensemble, they still have to wear the curious little thing (and note that the Oscar attendees who haven't succumbed to the silk black necktie opt-out in favour of tradition are the ones who draw the most sartorial praise, or perhaps the least ire). Even if treated as costume, my jaunt to Prohibition, and my subsequent uncovering of related events such as next week's The Blitz, proved that some men will pay attention to such details

   Meanwhile, on American television, Chuck Bass runs amok, barely tamed by the show's stylist, and dorky, baby-faced Harry of Mad Men somehow adds to the drama's cool and influential allure (and his own need for maturity) by wearing his BT like it's the most natural thing in the world (and though its decline was setting in even back then, playing such an affectation straight makes all the difference in its perception). And outside of the box and all over the country, Southern, WASP, Trad and older gentlemen are working with these fictional constructs to subliminally influence the male metropolitan young in broadening its look

   And then there's the geek chic thing. For comparison's sake, imagine a small-scale style version of the image makeover Sony gave to video game players when the PlayStation first emerged. Introduce, say, four more male sex symbols wearing these adornments on a regular basis and widespread popularity just might ensue


  It would be remiss not to credit the designers who are unable to let a good thing die. Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent, Junya Watanabe (briefly), and especially Ralph Lauren and Tom Ford - all have produced collections that feature the bow as part of an affectionate tribute to old world glamour, rather than as a rehabilitative stylistic exercise. Understanding and insight into tradition and elegance is the secret weapon of the man who wears a bow tie well; it's what separates him from the hipster method, which is usually so much ironic, style unconscious pap

   To whit - a bow tie on a polo shirt is a geek's game. It really, really helps if you are an actual geek, or at the very least, an indie kid with geek affectations. Otherwise, it's a look perpetrated by one who self-consciously doesn't know what he's doing, probably because he's aping someone else in the first place. To make matters worse, the polo will more often than not be clashing with the clip-on in the first place. And it would really help if arbiters whom I trust to know better would refrain from encouraging the impressionable

   The BT + plaid shirt take isn't much better. Plaids are a particularly strong pattern and tying up the collar with a BT seems even more contrived, like trying to contain a fit-to-burst balloon of colour and pattern with a non-complementary string. About the best ways to minimise and refine the look are to wear a relatively less bold shirt, use a bow tie that harmonises with the colours of the shirt (so it's best to keep the BT plain and perhaps in a more luxe material such as silk) and wear a sober, well-cut sportsjacket or knit v-neck, both of which always balance out more exuberant shirting


   But really, my point is this: it's not a Herculean undertaking to wear a bow tie in this day and age. Sobriety and subtlety are the key and the bolder models will be mastered with time and confidence. BTs have been denigrated as flamboyant for decades but there's little flamboyant about their use amongst traditionalists, who team them with otherwise plain, neat ensembles, and it's this sort of principle that should guide their use - no pushed up jacket sleeves or untucked shirts or daft clip-on braces

   A bow tie is a creative piece and should be treated as the most idiosyncratic item in an ensemble. With a suit, the pocket square should be fairly tame or folded, and the shirt pattern can be reasonably discreet - too loud and it's off to clown school. I myself have worn far more ridiculous items than BTs, and on my rambles in the less fashionable areas of South London, the bows have attracted far less scepticism, scorn or sneers than my old graphic t-shirts and outlandish jackets. In fact, they've gone almost entirely unnoticed; quite the exhilarating feeling in truth. It's a simple matter of making the surrounding garments calmer, or, conversely, as interesting

   Anyone can see that one is wearing a bow tie, but you'll suffer if you feel the need to draw attention to it by, say, selecting an awkward silhouette of drainpipe jeans and an overlarge jacket or a full-bore Victorian ensemble. Wear it in good taste and a compliment or two might be forthcoming - particularly from women - with bonus points awarded for self-tying. Wear it like a clown and any negative response is really on your own head

Dsquared2 A/W06: clownish might be too harsh in this case. In the real world, shedding the topper, pulling up the trousers, shrinking the sleeves and detaching the fob chain from the fly would make this look hard to argue against

Lanvin A/W06: The first outing under the Lucas Ossendrijver/Alber Elbaz creative wing presented a realistic hypothesis of modern bow tie wearing, based principally on a slick high school senior's approach to eveningwear. All the colours are neutral and solid; most of them dark. The cropped trench ably substitutes for a double breasted jacket, the silhouette is relaxed and worn, and the gloves support both the formality and casual practicality of the look. The shapes allow the trainers to blend in. The bow tie is a little out of proportion with the model's face, but keep the widths and height restrained and this won't be an issue

   The best bow ties tend to be British-retailed - excuse my bias - or from Ralph Lauren. The most attractive and varied ones at the moment are available from the old standby likes of Hackett, Turnbull & Asser and Budd, while Brooks Brothers, RL and Tom Ford (who else?) take care of business on the American end. More affordable products abound at Woods of Shropshire, Clermont Direct and eBay. And if there's anyone I've missed, do let me know - I'd be more than happy to wear them

Runway images: men.style.com

Spring's Last Swing

   As London heats up, there's one place I know I can rely on to layer up for at least another few days - Edinburgh. Bank Holidays should always be spent out of town if it can be helped. And this is one city I don't mind helping myself to

Day Version ('Til the Early Evening)

Night Version - Club Ready

Customise Me: An Update

   Fiona and I spent a little bit of time planning the next phase of my garment "remixes." Most of the pieces are summery in construction and purpose, which suits me rather well - winter wools and layering are truly my forte, allowing me to work on my summer looks - but on the other hand, low expectations are mandatory for English weather

   Included are a sketch of a linen short sleeved shirt that will be patched with extra fabric along the arms, a display of Fi's workspace, and my obligatory outfit shot, which I thought rather suited this rare day of dryness and sun

   More as it develops

For previous entries, click the 'customisation' link below