Weekend's Worth of Troublemaking

   I will endeavour to come up with some more substantial (ha!) posts presently. To take up some room, I enclose a party photo from over the weekend at an event hosted by my friend at Tekkstyle. Themed "Le Freak, C'est Chic," it was generally agreed that I erred more on the side of chic compared to most - I simply aimed for a slightly exaggerated version of myself by maxing out on the old accessories, though it doesn't entirely compare to the shock factor of simply wearing either of my Junya jackets. I'd have shot a full-length and taken my own photos, but... something has happened to my camera that may not be rectified for some time. That's life

The In-Between Season

   Sometimes, seasonal dressing gets its wires crossed. It may become bright, but inexplicably cool, or humid, but overcast. And despite the unswerving heat of late, Monday still found time to have its cake and eat it by serving up some unexpected rain. Today's temperature is similarly unwieldy, but hardly a return to wintry days, nonetheless

   Still, it never ceases to amaze me how few actually check a forecast before departing their abodes for the day, which puts me in mind of a certain Forrest Gump quote, but I like to be prepared for change from above if I can help it. And one thing I am definitely a fan of is the year-round suit

One of my all-seasons suits in January 2009. The double breasted design helps to keep the heat in and the breathable, lighter worsted material helps to regulate my temperature

   Whilst on my recent sojourn in Edinburgh, an incoming graduate, about to be released into the arid desert of the current job market, made a few enquiries of me as to what kinds of suits he needed for upcoming work and where to find them. After making the usual suggestions - Reiss, Austin Reed, Suit Supply, H&M - I cautioned him: "If you can, get three. One should definitely be a reasonably warm wool, and you'll be well-timed to pick one up in August or September. But definitely buy one in the summer sales - it'll be of a lighter weight, but will keep you temperate enough well into October, at least. You need that one suit that deals well with most temperatures and can be supported with a coat, Barbour or v-neck when necessary"

   As for off-duty times, if the weather is wonky enough, as it is today, I like to throw on a wool sportcoat, slightly lighter trousers (my upper half deals with the confusion a little better) and skip the ties for a neckscarf. Because I am that sort of a man. It's much like having the best of both worlds

The Sun is My Enemy

   I like the brightness and the length of the days. I just don't deal as well with the heat (more or less what I expressed the last time the weather improved). "Elegance is harder to maintain in the summer" is a truism that someone needs to print onto a t-shirt. Speaking of upper halfwear, I'm wearing the H&M TREND(Y) shirt I wrote of some time ago. It may inspire the shortest 'Customise Me' post ever once I've changed the position of the collar's buttons

   The title of the post was borrowed from a song by my musical idol, Cornelius, who more than likely borrowed it from the book by Henrietta Aladjem. Because of familiarity I can recommend the one, and because it seems fitting somehow, I may as well recommend the other. I hope that whoever's reading enjoyed their weekend

In fairness, the evenings are still cool enough for a little layering. Everyone's a winner, baby

The Bow Tie Post (A Primer)

It's time

  Truth is, the bow tie just seems incapable of dying, no matter how far out of favour it's fallen as daywear. Even if half the attendees at a black or white tie event can only put together a clip-on-centric ensemble, they still have to wear the curious little thing (and note that the Oscar attendees who haven't succumbed to the silk black necktie opt-out in favour of tradition are the ones who draw the most sartorial praise, or perhaps the least ire). Even if treated as costume, my jaunt to Prohibition, and my subsequent uncovering of related events such as next week's The Blitz, proved that some men will pay attention to such details

   Meanwhile, on American television, Chuck Bass runs amok, barely tamed by the show's stylist, and dorky, baby-faced Harry of Mad Men somehow adds to the drama's cool and influential allure (and his own need for maturity) by wearing his BT like it's the most natural thing in the world (and though its decline was setting in even back then, playing such an affectation straight makes all the difference in its perception). And outside of the box and all over the country, Southern, WASP, Trad and older gentlemen are working with these fictional constructs to subliminally influence the male metropolitan young in broadening its look

   And then there's the geek chic thing. For comparison's sake, imagine a small-scale style version of the image makeover Sony gave to video game players when the PlayStation first emerged. Introduce, say, four more male sex symbols wearing these adornments on a regular basis and widespread popularity just might ensue


  It would be remiss not to credit the designers who are unable to let a good thing die. Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent, Junya Watanabe (briefly), and especially Ralph Lauren and Tom Ford - all have produced collections that feature the bow as part of an affectionate tribute to old world glamour, rather than as a rehabilitative stylistic exercise. Understanding and insight into tradition and elegance is the secret weapon of the man who wears a bow tie well; it's what separates him from the hipster method, which is usually so much ironic, style unconscious pap

   To whit - a bow tie on a polo shirt is a geek's game. It really, really helps if you are an actual geek, or at the very least, an indie kid with geek affectations. Otherwise, it's a look perpetrated by one who self-consciously doesn't know what he's doing, probably because he's aping someone else in the first place. To make matters worse, the polo will more often than not be clashing with the clip-on in the first place. And it would really help if arbiters whom I trust to know better would refrain from encouraging the impressionable

   The BT + plaid shirt take isn't much better. Plaids are a particularly strong pattern and tying up the collar with a BT seems even more contrived, like trying to contain a fit-to-burst balloon of colour and pattern with a non-complementary string. About the best ways to minimise and refine the look are to wear a relatively less bold shirt, use a bow tie that harmonises with the colours of the shirt (so it's best to keep the BT plain and perhaps in a more luxe material such as silk) and wear a sober, well-cut sportsjacket or knit v-neck, both of which always balance out more exuberant shirting


   But really, my point is this: it's not a Herculean undertaking to wear a bow tie in this day and age. Sobriety and subtlety are the key and the bolder models will be mastered with time and confidence. BTs have been denigrated as flamboyant for decades but there's little flamboyant about their use amongst traditionalists, who team them with otherwise plain, neat ensembles, and it's this sort of principle that should guide their use - no pushed up jacket sleeves or untucked shirts or daft clip-on braces

   A bow tie is a creative piece and should be treated as the most idiosyncratic item in an ensemble. With a suit, the pocket square should be fairly tame or folded, and the shirt pattern can be reasonably discreet - too loud and it's off to clown school. I myself have worn far more ridiculous items than BTs, and on my rambles in the less fashionable areas of South London, the bows have attracted far less scepticism, scorn or sneers than my old graphic t-shirts and outlandish jackets. In fact, they've gone almost entirely unnoticed; quite the exhilarating feeling in truth. It's a simple matter of making the surrounding garments calmer, or, conversely, as interesting

   Anyone can see that one is wearing a bow tie, but you'll suffer if you feel the need to draw attention to it by, say, selecting an awkward silhouette of drainpipe jeans and an overlarge jacket or a full-bore Victorian ensemble. Wear it in good taste and a compliment or two might be forthcoming - particularly from women - with bonus points awarded for self-tying. Wear it like a clown and any negative response is really on your own head

Dsquared2 A/W06: clownish might be too harsh in this case. In the real world, shedding the topper, pulling up the trousers, shrinking the sleeves and detaching the fob chain from the fly would make this look hard to argue against

Lanvin A/W06: The first outing under the Lucas Ossendrijver/Alber Elbaz creative wing presented a realistic hypothesis of modern bow tie wearing, based principally on a slick high school senior's approach to eveningwear. All the colours are neutral and solid; most of them dark. The cropped trench ably substitutes for a double breasted jacket, the silhouette is relaxed and worn, and the gloves support both the formality and casual practicality of the look. The shapes allow the trainers to blend in. The bow tie is a little out of proportion with the model's face, but keep the widths and height restrained and this won't be an issue

   The best bow ties tend to be British-retailed - excuse my bias - or from Ralph Lauren. The most attractive and varied ones at the moment are available from the old standby likes of Hackett, Turnbull & Asser and Budd, while Brooks Brothers, RL and Tom Ford (who else?) take care of business on the American end. More affordable products abound at Woods of Shropshire, Clermont Direct and eBay. And if there's anyone I've missed, do let me know - I'd be more than happy to wear them

Runway images: men.style.com

Spring's Last Swing

   As London heats up, there's one place I know I can rely on to layer up for at least another few days - Edinburgh. Bank Holidays should always be spent out of town if it can be helped. And this is one city I don't mind helping myself to

Day Version ('Til the Early Evening)

Night Version - Club Ready

Customise Me: An Update

   Fiona and I spent a little bit of time planning the next phase of my garment "remixes." Most of the pieces are summery in construction and purpose, which suits me rather well - winter wools and layering are truly my forte, allowing me to work on my summer looks - but on the other hand, low expectations are mandatory for English weather

   Included are a sketch of a linen short sleeved shirt that will be patched with extra fabric along the arms, a display of Fi's workspace, and my obligatory outfit shot, which I thought rather suited this rare day of dryness and sun

   More as it develops

For previous entries, click the 'customisation' link below

A Homage to the Belowmentioned

   With a dash of John S. Goodall's An Edwardian Holiday

Outfit Digest - Hair Loss

Before:

After:

It happens to us all

The Afternoon Tea at Yumchaa

   Should you ever find yourself stuck for an interesting teahouse to visit in Soho, this little charmer is ready to serve you. It has a wide variety of delectable and individual rooibos blends, charming surroundings and cool staff at the counter. I recommend the Chilli Chilli Bang Bang brew, myself

   And one can't deny that the decor is just a little photogenic

The Best Dressed "Me"

Your author in 2005, wearing the apex of his "personal uniform" in rumpled style

   Simply put, everyone has a look. Some even have three. But not everyone thinks deeply about how they look on a day to day basis

   For those who dress to live, the greatest effort expended will be on occasions such as interviews, parties and weddings, and even then, it's a gamble as to how often they succeed at it. For those who live to dress, well, that's always a different story

   The diligent duo at StyleSalvage have mused once or twice on the topic of a personal uniform, an exterior combination of garments that readily identifies the signature appearance of its wearer. And, inspired by the thoughts of the talented Richard Haines, they have done so in an insightful manner. Their posts connected with me because I've long considered my own style to be a uniform of sorts - an experimental traditional style that's supplemented by various personal tics

   Over the years, the favoured remark that I've received - meant sincerely or backhandedly, either is fine - is a variation of "I couldn't wear that," which suits my design perfectly, especially when I'm in a more subdued ensemble at the time. But nevertheless, I've always had conflicted feelings about the idea of a personal uniform. I can accept being thought of as "smart," "dapper" and in other similar terms in general, but it's more interesting that I receive them at times when dressed in a manner that could be more charitably described as "zany " - a recent stint of jury service inspired the words, "Snappy outfit," when the smartest thing I was wearing was a cardigan. But that's drifting from the point a little

   Or maybe not. Experimentation within your style is a good thing and I fully champion it. It's often seemed that this style exploration dies down as one descends into dotage, having ostensibly "perfected" the image that is then presented to the outside world daily. The implication is that once you've passed a certain age, there should be no more effort to surprise or to catch the sartorial eyes of others off guard. And in truth, I don't really think it's that simple

   I believe that experimentation actually changes itself as one continues to explore, and I think resources such as Advanced Style or The Sartorialist really stand up for the sharpest dressers of the elder set. When you're older, you should really be doing what the hell you want. After you've discarded what doesn't work, you can then focus on what does and then introduce different things that may or may not work either, but certainly weren't there before. A simple example is changing from Dior Homme-esque skinny jeans to the revivalist Oxford Bags-style of Bottega Veneta - you're still wearing denim, but everyone who knows you is going to pick up on the new silhouette straight away

Some consider slimmer trousers to suit me better, but why stay in one place?

   People who alter their entire looks are motivated by a wealth of thoughts (or neuroses), that can include changes in music tastes, the interests and lifestyles of their friends and/or lovers, working environments, "growing up" and, more often than not, celebrity culture and advertising. At the opposite end of the scale, those of an alternative bent aren't necessarily the better dressed, nor is their approach more intrinsically cool, but they are more likely to be honest and steadfast about their appearance - "I couldn't wear that," indeed

   The members of music subcultures who actively engage with their scenes and dress accordingly are on to something, because they don't often care what other people think. The imitators they inevitably attract do, but that shouldn't be to the detriment of their style leaders

   So don't just do what others are doing. There's a reason it's called a "personal uniform" - there needs to be a sense of the person inside for it to be called your own. I'm not talking about full-blown iconoclastic originality here - we all dress within various frameworks and archetypes, myself included. Unless you make your own clothes and have the vision and ability for an entire paradigm shift in dressing, you're no more individually attired than anyone else in a basic sense, presuming that you're not given to wearing costumes daily

   I will always respect the attention to detail that guides retro-fetishist fans of 19th and early-to-mid 20th century dressing, but I don't respect the message behind it - "Nostalgia rules, classicism is the way, didn't we look so much better oh so long ago?" This will fail on a number of levels, not least of which is looking dated, and the successful ones are only so when they put something of their own personality into the looks instead of making it all about their preferences. Nevertheless, if you're adopting a look, it's always necessary to have an icon or a touchstone that you can build off instead of directly aping

Between his style of music and the fairly precise recreations of mid-20th century ensembles, where does fanboyism end and clever marketing begin?

   I myself was once accused of "wearing traditional clothes in a fashionable way," although for some time, my goal was actually the opposite. But while I hesitate to consider my style truly sophisticated, I believe that a sense of enjoyment and an awareness of history have helped evolve my look away from a simplistic province of sportscoat-tie-trousers and the decidedly "fashionable" eccentric combos involving ties and t-shirts I wore to go clubbing 2 years ago. It's a sign of the times that I have the freedom to go from Victorian frippery to post-war gent to 70s lounger, but I won't simply Xerox these looks, because that would be silly

   To some, my "personal uniform" is obvious and can be boiled down to a simple word or archetype like "dapper." It will likely remain the case, no matter what details I can swap out, and considering the relative variety of pieces I've used in my basic ensembles over the years, that's saying something

When it comes down to it, the only real deviations most will see are that I'm wearing a bow tie and look even more "retro" than normal. That's experimentation for you

   For me, a personal uniform does not just boil down to designers or signifiers or archetypes. It should reflect your view of yourself and your life. All I want to be is the best dressed "me" that I can

Your author in 2009 - same basic outfit as the first, but the details have been tweaked in a more considered and neat manner

Art of the Pattern Clash

   Some might say that it's a very British mannerism to clash patterns in clothing. However, if I had grown up in West Africa after all, I would have done that anyway. But irrespectively, I just love doing it, no matter how classy or dodgy the results might be

   The short sleeved crew neck jumper is conspicuous on its own, all colours, stripes and sporty bands. There's even a number on the back, like a sports top. There's a slight synergy in what I'm wearing underneath. The long sleeve shirt keeps things relatively neutral with a white base, and relates subtly to the jumper with thin stripes in green and blue

   As for the neckwear, something about this outfit called for a cravat. While other colours probably could have done, the pale yellow base is neutral enough for the overall outfit, while blending in with the other plain and lighter colours of the outfit. About the only way this felt less than hazardous was excercising sobriety with my lower half, keeping the belt, trousers and shoes dark and sombre

   Remember that at least one or two (or four) calm pieces in a multi-patterned ensemble should prevent you from blinding onlookers when you're out and about. It works for me

Customisation Deux: A la Mode

   Fiona took the lead on this latest "garment recalibration." Despite the florid, humourous twist it sometimes added to my ensembles, I'd pretty much resigned myself to having no further use for this ice cream man-friendly Interno8 shirt, although, seeing as it wasn't the only one of the three I own that I didn't choose myself, it, along with one other, would always face that fate

   But why let such a fetching red-and-white houndstooth pattern go to waste just because of an enormous collar and billowy fit issues? 'Twould fly in the face of my current "everything is usable" philosophy (if you ignore that a dozen of my pieces will be appearing online with an Ebay banner above their photos in about a week's time):

Before

   Together, over a delicious meal one evening, we came up with a concept that hearkened back to the kind of summer shirts young, open fated men would have worn in some bygone time where summer outfitting didn't mean slogan t-shirts, crocs and mismatched shorts

   Of course, the irony is that the shirt is unwearable at temperatures above 30 degrees due to its weight, but the look will still hold up on less tepid days

After

   The collar has been rendered inside out in a more unique banded style, while the 3-button barrel cuffs have migrated halfway up the sleeves. We thought that such an idiosyncratic detail should not go to waste. The fit around the body has been altered slightly, but a follow-up is forthcoming if I keep wasting away, as everyone seems to think I am

   All in all, a definite improvement

The first entry in this series is available here

Prohibition! Or, The Perfect Name For a Club Night in Booze Britain Is...

   I could wax lyrical about the atmosphere, the music, the number of attractive flappers, the teacups, the dancing and the play gambling, but I trust the photos truly speak for themselves. This is Prohibition:

The Sunshine Overground

Image alteration by Cary Grant on SF

   The major detraction regarding the warmer weather is weaving ensembles together if one insists on aiming for the classics. So, while I can, I'm going to enjoy as much layering - and pretty, young sunbathers - as possible. I'm not the greatest sunchild around, but it's good to get out when the weather's this bright and warm

Outfit Digest - Gliding Down The Formality Scale

   Any object lessons? Cropped trousers are my latest work in progress, H&M make great jumpers, I'm developing a fandom of one for bow ties and the jacket and trousers outfit is, according to one critic, more of a "cravat outfit". Anyone believe I agreed? I'm thinking "scarf"

Customise Me

   It's no surprise to anyone that I've developed quite the bulging... wardrobe over the years. And it's pretty much a sure thing that I don't wear everything I've bought, stolen, borrowed or been given. But I try to be a waste not-want not kind of man and over time, I'll be looking at customising pieces I own

   The bug bit me late last year when I snagged one of the many highlights of Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons Man's S/S 08 collection, which in itself practically encapsulates half of my ideas on how menswear can be fun yet refined and referential. Perhaps the pinnacle of the ongoing collaboration the designer began with the ever iconic Lacoste in 2005, it's a safari jacket made out of Lacoste's own polo shirts, recut and stitched together, lined with Junya's own fabrics, designed using fanatically classic tailoring techniques and overdyed in various colours. Indeed, on the runway, it made two appearances, with one model peacocking in a rather sharp red:

Credit: men.style.com

   Naturally, Japan received every variation going (I mean, orange), but London made do with the pink one. As excellent as brazen pastels can be for the bright, sharp season, I needed a little more seasonal versatility from such a compelling piece, and I was prepared to stake its entire look on my desire

   All it took was one box of Dylon dye, one box of Dylon Colour Remover (essential to make sure the dye will run evenly over a more neutral, mostly colour-free garment), about 300g of salt and the help of a very good friend:

Before

After

   FAQs tend to focus on the lack of overdyed stitching. Simple answer: polyester thread doesn't take well to dyeing, and even the industrial strength dye of the jacket's original configuration only lent the tinge of pink to the stitches first time around. The faint purple wash on the buttons is a rather nice result, and all in all, I got what I wanted - a jacket to wear almost anywhere I want

   The fellows at Browns weren't so pleased, though