Monday, 7 February 2011

Not For Mortals

   Tommy Nutter, seen here firing one of his cannonballs into the wilderness of the conservative doldrums, had a knack for bending my theory that fine tailoring can surmount almost any flamboyant flight of go-to-hell fancy when it comes to suiting. This definitely constitutes one of those moments

   Nevertheless, the structuring is rather exquisite - between the brilliant shape of the aircraft-grade lapels and the built-up form of the shoulders, he is a plaid-clad hero for the late 20th century. This should be little surprise - for all of the focus on Nutter's eccentricity, the product masterminded by Edward Sexton, Joseph Morgan, Roy Chittleborough and him, along with those who worked with him in the ensuing "Tommy Nutter" days, was pure Savile Row at its heart; the tailoring tradition of generations anchoring the theatrical preening of what might have otherwise been showy and difficult to wear clothing (to say nothing of the quality of their more conventional creations). Despite acknowledging the abrasiveness and humour of this look - and I've no idea what the original colours are - in all other aspects, down to Nutter's hair even, it is far from unsophisticated. The pattern combination alone lays Tom Ford's latter day ideas utterly bare

   The sobriety of thought and craft that went into this gleefully insensible ensemble makes an interesting counterpoint to the visual histrionics of Luca Rubinacci, Lapo Elkann and the Pitti crowd, who often strike me as throwing stuff against the wall to see if it sprezzes


Anonymous said...

I heard that Tom Ford Actually came top speak to Edward Sexton before creating his tailoring line.

Barima said...

There's no doubting the sincerity of Ford's inspirations at this point - think back to the Gucci days - but if you search using both men's names in Google, Sexton makes a dismissive comment about Ford's originality in a blogged interview


Gentleman's Gazette said...

Wow! This is jacket is basically all lapels. The extra layer of fabric is great during the winter.

Regards, Gentleman's Gazette

Anonymous said...

Edward Sexton is still wowing them with his mourning suits in therm up to the royal wedding. See what NBC today program has to say about it: